London


<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-the-location-nbsp">THE LOCATION&nbsp;</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1024" height="705" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/j2MT8woB-1024x705.jpeg" alt="Sael restaurant London " class="wp-image-5344" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/j2MT8woB-1024x705.jpeg 1024w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/j2MT8woB-300x206.jpeg 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/j2MT8woB-768x528.jpeg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/j2MT8woB.jpeg 1500w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<p>Tucked away in the capital&#8217;s new gourmet hot spot St James’s Market off Haymarket, <a href="https://www.saellondon.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Sael</a> (an old English word denoting season FYI) is&nbsp;a two-minute stroll from Piccadilly Circus or a five-minute meander from Trafalgar Square. About as convenient as you can get for a central London lunch or supper, and yet it doesn’t feel remotely touristy.&nbsp;</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-the-vibe-nbsp">THE VIBE&nbsp;</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1024" height="683" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/14i7ebhw-1024x683.jpeg" alt="Sael Restaurant seating " class="wp-image-5345" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/14i7ebhw-1024x683.jpeg 1024w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/14i7ebhw-300x200.jpeg 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/14i7ebhw-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/14i7ebhw.jpeg 1500w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /></figure>



<p>Sael might be a loud and proud British restaurant, but first impressions are distinctly French, think awnings, bistro-style tables on the pavement, comfy yet chic sage green banquettes and a gold accented bar that’s made for good times. It’s the kind of relaxed restaurant you don’t need to dress up for, yet the decor’s so elegant you sort of wish you had. A great place to meet a friend for lunch, Muddy can also imagine a date night here, particularly as there’s a speakeasy upstairs if things are going well, but more of that later.&nbsp;</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-scoff-amp-quaff-nbsp">SCOFF &amp; QUAFF&nbsp;</h2>



<p>The food, cooked in full view of diners, is undeniably excellent. It’s no secret that Atherton’s one of the UK’s top chefs, with Michelin stars and a string&nbsp;of restaurants world-wide under his belt, however it’s not a given that a new launch will be successful, particularly when he’s also busy opening Three Darlings in Chelsea and Row on 5 on Saville Row. Yet from the first mouthful, it’s clear Sael&#8217;s going to be a winner.&nbsp;</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1024" height="683" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/CjEPSX1t-1024x683.jpeg" alt="Sael restaurant marmite custard tart" class="wp-image-5349" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/CjEPSX1t-1024x683.jpeg 1024w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/CjEPSX1t-300x200.jpeg 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/CjEPSX1t-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/CjEPSX1t.jpeg 1500w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Marmite custard tart, anyone?</figcaption></figure>



<p>An Autumn menu celebrating the best of British produce is a strong start. We kick things off with tempura rock oysters in a batter so light it’s actually ridiculous, and a slither of Marmite custard tart topped with caviar, which will surely become a TikTok hit, both for its appearance and extraordinary taste. It shouldn&#8217;t work and yet it does. And that’s just the ‘snacks’.&nbsp;</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="768" height="1024" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/IMG-20240927-WA0023-768x1024.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-5350" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/IMG-20240927-WA0023-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/IMG-20240927-WA0023-225x300.jpg 225w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/IMG-20240927-WA0023-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/IMG-20240927-WA0023.jpg 1500w" sizes="(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px" /><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Round of applause for the fries </figcaption></figure>



<p>Starters include original dishes like Cornish mackerel, jalapeño, barbecue pineapple and lime and wood-fired port-roasted figs, stracciatella and cobnut hummus, but it’s the Mid Plates that made Muddy want to eat here on the regular. Skewers of perfectly cooked, bite-sized pieces of calamari and wagyu, delicious Lincolnshire broccoli with tempura scraps and seaweed and a plump piece of Scottish halibut in a rich red pepper and cockle stew. Special mention for the salt and vinegar chips, which are so moreish it’s probably a good job Muddy’s HQ isn’t close to St James’s.&nbsp;</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1024" height="683" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/W3BKIjrw-1024x683.jpeg" alt="" class="wp-image-5347" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/W3BKIjrw-1024x683.jpeg 1024w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/W3BKIjrw-300x200.jpeg 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/W3BKIjrw-768x513.jpeg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/W3BKIjrw.jpeg 1500w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Who knew snails could taste this good?</figcaption></figure>



<p>The surprise stand-out dish? A 100-layer Hereford snail and ox cheek lasagna which is a hearty, creamy hug of a meal. Put the squished snails to the back of your mind and savour.&nbsp;</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="768" height="1024" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/IMG-20240927-WA0035-768x1024.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-5348" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/IMG-20240927-WA0035-768x1024.jpg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/IMG-20240927-WA0035-225x300.jpg 225w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/IMG-20240927-WA0035-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/IMG-20240927-WA0035.jpg 1500w" sizes="(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px" /><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Jason Atherton made an appearance </figcaption></figure>



<p>Another unexpected surprise was the appearance of the chef. Sure it was launch week, but Muddy didn&#8217;t expect to be served by Jason, who came across as very down to earth while we chatted about the concept of the restaurant (&#8216;there’s definitely a place for high quality yet affordable food in London right now&#8217;) and his hands-on approach to every aspect &#8211; he even selected the music playlist. </p>



<p>After he returned to the kitchen, where his executive chef Dale Bainbridge runs the show, our desserts turn up and we get our third surprise of the day. A much-hyped roly-poly turned out to be more pastry than sponge and was a bit of a disappointment, however our waiter-recommended bread and butter pudding ice cream was heavenly helado. Seriously, if the future of British cooking is nan dishes reconfigured, Muddy’s in.&nbsp;</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1024" height="683" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/XnKrfi8w-1-1024x683.jpeg" alt="Apples &amp; Pears Speakeasy " class="wp-image-5346" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/XnKrfi8w-1-1024x683.jpeg 1024w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/XnKrfi8w-1-300x200.jpeg 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/XnKrfi8w-1-768x512.jpeg 768w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/london/wp-content/uploads/sites/24/2024/10/XnKrfi8w-1.jpeg 1500w" sizes="(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px" /><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Apples &amp; Pears </figcaption></figure>



<p>The final surprise wasn’t even in the restaurant, but upstairs. Apples &amp; Pears (see what Atherton did there), is a sexy speakeasy with a completely different vibe to downstairs Sael. Gone are the soaring ceilings and light-filled spaces, in are dark red walls, black and white photos of UK rock royalty (<em>The Beatles, Queen</em>), and a beautiful semi-circular low-lit bar where we can imagine hanging out until <em>very</em> late indeed. &nbsp;</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-out-amp-about-nbsp">OUT &amp; ABOUT&nbsp;</h2>



<p>If you haven’t discovered St James’s Market yet, you need to take a look around. As well as Sael, you’ll also find some upmarket shops and more stellar eateries including award-winning Fallow restaurant, Ole &amp; Steen (pastries by Denmark’s top bakers) and Neapolitan street food at ‘O ver. Trust us, it’s culinary gold.&nbsp;</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-the-muddy-verdict-nbsp">THE MUDDY VERDICT&nbsp;</h2>



<p><strong>Best for:</strong> Meeting a friend for a gossipy lunch that expands into afternoon drinks, or a date to impress a foodie. if you’re in town early for work, a bouji breakfast al fresco would be a treat too. </p>



<p><strong>Not for:</strong> If you’re still into white table cloths and degustation menus with 13 minuscule dishes that have descriptions using the words jus, foam and gold leaf, you probably won’t appreciate comfort food lasagne, even if it is made from snails. &nbsp;</p>



<p><strong>The damage: </strong>Michelin standard cooking at an affordable price, what’s not to love? Snacks: tempura oysters (£5) and marmite custard tart (£6). Starters range from £9 &#8211; £15 (for the Cornish mackerel), while Mid Plates are around the £20 mark &#8211; the lasagne we keep banging on about is £22.&nbsp;</p>



<p><em><strong>Address: 1 St James’s Market, London, SW1Y 4QQ</strong></em></p>


Review: Sael London, St James’s Market

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